Yes, it’s time. Time to talk turkey. Christmas menus, pigs in blankets, mulled wine and pud.
And what better place to start my sampling of the offering this year, than Harvey Nichols? A place where I’ve spent many a December Saturday representing gin and whisky brands.
It felt rather nice to head up the escalator to the third floor as a customer instead of heading in to work, laden down with booze!
As you’d expect from HN, the menu offers both the traditional, and some dishes a step away from the classic gravy and sprouts. And so we decided to go for a little of both.
Keeley began with the duck liver pate, with orange chutney, sourdough and salad. Admittedly the salad looked a little tired, but let’s be honest, how many of us are actually going to eat the salad? By the time you’ve dunked your knife into the buttery parfait and tart chutney, and slathered it on the fresh sourdough, that’s all you’re going to bother with.
Whereas I opted for the roasted hake, with artichoke puree, haricot beans and crispy kale. This was a proper substantial starter – I’d have been very happy with this as a main too. Creamy earthy puree, the kale was beautifully crisp and bitter, the beans added a nutty touch. The hake walked the line between crispy skin and pleasantly done flesh. A little longer and the fish would have been tough and overdone.
I might nick the concept for a dinner at home!
Onto mains, and I was still off the beaten track, with the vegetarian option.
Creamy pumpkin risotto, tangy goats cheese, crispy green sage, and the fruity acidity of cranberries. Not a quartet I’d have automatically put together, but it really did work well, and despite having had a heavy starter, dove in spoon first.
Keeley had gone traditional. Stuffed turkey ballotine, carrot puree, smoked creamy brussel sprouts, pig in blanket, red cabbage and rosemary roasted potatoes. Oh and gravy. Let’s not forget the gravy.
The roasties had a crunchy outer, but fluffy inside (perfect for soaking up gravy).The pig in blanket was done well, rather than the usual slightly flabby ones you usually get this time of year. The cabbage was soft and warmly spiced, and there was a good generous slice of turkey, stuffed with a rather good apricot stuffing. The highlight for me, not for Keeley I hasten to add, was the sprouts. I do love a good sprout, and these were creamy, rich and smoky, and the green bitterness cut through it so well. If they were available as a side, I’d have grabbed the bowl full and asked for a spoon. More greens like this please, less soft squidgy overdone mush.
Finally came pudding. And we both went for the non-traditional option. Though the pudding tempted me, I’m not a fan of brandy sauce (just give me my brandy in a warm glass please). So I went all cheesy. But not as you’d expect.
This is such a pretty dessert. And a tasty one too. Whipped Stilton, broken crackers, slivers of crisp celery, little chunks of quince jelly. Take a cheeseboard and make it pretty.
Keeley on the other hand wanted something a little sweeter. White chocolate cheesecake with poached clementine. Sweet, fruity, floral, with just a little acidity to cut through all that sweetness. The clementine adds that little Christmas touch – how many others still remember getting one in their stocking? I admit, I now just buy them for myself and steep the skins in gin. (Yes it’s delicious).
Overall, this is definitely one of the better festive menus I’ve had over recent years. I still have many a sad memory of overdone veg, and grey turkey. And I love the vegetarian options too, just a little bit different.
Now where do I head next?
