Later this week, we will have our March get together for Manchester Whisky Club. As it’s so close, I thought it would be fun to look at last month’s meeting which involved the Highland malts of Tomatin. The distillery is based in the Monadhliath Mountains just south of Inverness and it’s the waters of these mountains that go to create their whisky. Given the number of awards they win, yet alone their history – the formal distillery was built in 1897 – proving that whatever they’re doing to create it, they must be doing something right.
Meeting in our usual haunt, The Lass O’Gowrie, we were looking forward to four whiskies on offer from Tomatin: 12 year old, 15 year old, 18 year old and finally the very special 30 year old non-chill filtered. Needless to say, being new to the brand, I certainly was rather excited.
The plan for the evening was to work in age order, so we started with the 12 year old. This Spanish sherry butt finished whisky is also matured in 1st fill bourbon barrel s and refill American oak casks prior to bottling. On the nose, the vanilla scent is strong, along with heavy wood and a hint of rubber. On the palate, this for me was overdone. I wanted to like it – I love sherry – but this unfortunately lost the sherry flavours and sweetness, leaving too much wood and vanilla and it lost the spice that the sherry gave it.
Onto the 15 year old. Matured in in refill American oak casks, this is a lighter more golden colour. On the nose, this was much lighter, and the change in barrels, was obvious. Malty, rounded, vanilla, but not as heavy as it’s younger sibling. A touch of lemon finished it off nicely. On the palate this was lovely. Vanilla, caramel, reminded me a touch of toffee apples, as it kept the fruitiness in the mouth too. With a rounded lingering finish, I was a very happy bunny.
Up another level, we moved onto the 18 year old. After a period in refill American oak casks, this older malt is finished in Oloroso sherry butts prior to bottling. The sherry casks were very prevalent on the nose, fruitcake, nuts, spices, all present, it was rather powerful, but not in an unpleasant way. On the palate was spice, deep marmalade flavours and a slight bitter chocolate note to it. It still kept a little sweetness, something akin to a bitter caramel. Unfortunately for me, the finish felt a little too dry, when something softer would have worked better. I’d still happily drink it again, but maybe with a little water to temper the dryness.
Finally onto the one that had me excited from the beginning. The 30 year old is finished in American and European oak casks, evident in the colour – again being lighter than the 12 and 18 year old. On the nose this is just heavenly – the vanilla is there, but it’s almost fruity, melding with a hint of berries and sweetness – I could have settled for sitting with my nose in the glass for the evening. On the palate this was just lovely, a little sweet, a little wood, a little vanilla and that gentle fruit all blending together into something rather special. With a touch of ginger (which always makes me happy) and a light finish, this was so completely ahead of it’s relations, I almost grabbed my credit card there and then.
As an introduction to Tomatin, this had mixed response from my tastebuds – but the final whisky made my palate exceedingly happy. I can see myself purchasing a bottle or two – I’ll have to share it with Mr GFB sadly.
As for the next meeting – we’re talking (and tasting) blends, as well as naming the Manchester Whisky Club blend. Roll on Thursday night.