I don’t do book reviews often. Mostly because finding time to read is a bit of a challenge. I took advantage during lockdown of the space and time, but now we’re ‘back to normal ish’ reading has become something I have to specifically make time for – especially given I’m also now blogging more for work purposes and having to frantically re-learn high school (and higher) physics to create blog posts.
This book by Gabe Cook, commissioned by CAMRA, is one I’m happy to make time for. Modern British Cider is a look at cider from all angles. How it’s made, what modern British cider is, lists a whole host of makers, and even delves into the vocabulary around cider. It’s one of those books that encompasses a lot, and lets the reader choose how deep or shallow they go.
The Manchester arm of the book launch itself took place at Dunham Cider, in Cheshire – and because that was an experience in itself, I’m splitting this into two parts. The first covering the book from Gabe, and the second Dunham Cider themselves. Aside from anything else, trying to do both together would mean you reading my waffle for ages, and perhaps lose a little something for both of them, when they both deserve my full attention.
The book covers the huge history of modern cider – beginning in around 1961. The building point for bigger cider makers, the increase in consumerism, branding, production changes and technological changes. The building of drinks giants, and the beginning of the tied brewpub era – leading to restrictions on the cider they could serve. For those of you who are (also) gin drinkers, this tie in also had an impact of the tonics you had access to, resulting in the loss of a number of tonic brands, and leaving us with the big players such as Britvic and Schweppes.
And no, not everything comes back to gin, but it’s interesting to note that this change in the sixties and seventies – pulling things together, making them bigger, more convenient and less individualistic – brand conforming in flavours offered across beer, cider, soft drinks and mixers, had a long lasting impact on what we drank then and where we sit now.
Aptly the story continues, through CAMRAs own involvement, to flavoured ciders growth, and craft beers influence (though I will refrain from mentioning a certain Scottish breweries influence by name – because whilst it was whilst their influence may have been important, the fact that Punks with Purpose has to exist, sits uneasily with me.
There’s no craft beers influence still continues now, but it’s the original idea and brand – the idea of exploring drinks rather than just sitting with the same old on the bar that’s key. It had influence in all areas, yes gin included, but as Gabe discusses, cider, and food. Add in the influence of the nineties crash, and we were more interested in quality not quantity. We didn’t have a lot of money, so we wanted real bang for our buck – and that meant flavour, experience.
But it’s not just a look at history. It assesses where we sit now, and what the future may hold. The impact that COVID had on cider, and how it changed the producer landscape. It also perhaps most importantly for a cider drinker showcases a lot of producers. From those who’ve already had significant impact, through to those who have been quietly doing their thing. Though Gabe himself admits he couldn’t fit everyone in due to sheer lack of space. Allow me without prejudice to mention two omissions – Brennan’s Cider in Liverpool, and Dour Cider in Scotland both of whom are doing interesting things.
Overall, it’s a great book featuring producers both big (in size and/or reputation) and small. It discusses modern cider as a concept, it nods to the history. And as I mentioned, it’s up to you, dear reader, how deep you dive. Whether you want to get all philosophical about modern cider, or you just want to see what producers exist near where you live so you can (hashtag) support local. Gabe has even included tasting notes around a recommended cider for each supplier – though it’s likely for the smaller suppliers these will date quickly as supply will be small!
For me, it’s a little of both. With all drinks, you do you. You drink what suits your palette and your budget.
For some, modern cider might be big tanks, consistency in flavour and colour, and as much juice per £1 as possible, for me, it’s a blend of modern technology, equipment and knowledge, alongside the comforting feel of tradition. Modernity gives producers and drinkers alike the opportunity to choose. Whether it’s the option to pitch yeast versus a wild ferment, using a traditional style press versus procured juice or concentrate, to the drinker being able to choose between a quick quaff of a big brand at the bar, or (my preferred option) an explore of flavours available to them. Variety is the spice of life.
There’s just so much to discover about cider, and I’ve barely dipped my toes in. Wassail Gabe.
The book Modern British Cider can be bought here for £15.99.