Bar Review: GONG, The Shard

Sometimes I love coincidence.

Manchester is full of them – as a city, we are relatively small and so we’re interlinked in a way that perhaps somewhere like London or New York is not. You can have a conversation with someone quite seemingly by chance and discover that you went to school with their sister, or you share the same hairdresser, or you have a mutual friend in common. 

You’ll discover you were at the same gig, worked in the same company, or even went to the same college.  

And sometimes events, timings, work so beautifully together, you count yourself a very lucky bunny. This was how, last week on a Wednesday evening, I found myself at GONG, a bar and restaurant 52 floors up The Shard, sharing cocktails with two knowledgeable and fascinating ladies.

It started with an email from the gorgeous Su-Lin to visit. Add this to Virgin Trains having a sale with some Manchester to London single tickets coming in at £10, and a little late hotel deal, and it all came together beautifully.

So, having checked in to my hotel in Hyde Park (I know, I went posh!) I made my way through the back streets and mews (one upon a time stables for those who went riding in the park – it was important for the rich to be ‘seen’ riding in Hyde Park), to the Tube and on, to The Shard. 

Once past reception and the gorgeous looking cafe space downstairs, my handbag was x-rayed (a first for me in a hotel) and I made my way up, changing lifts at floor 35, because that’s how it works. It also gives you a few moments to admire the view, and realise quite how high up you are. 

I arrived pm the 52nd floor to a stunning view – London even treated us to a rainbow and a rain shower. 

Gong as a space is beautiful – the theme, as you’d expect is heavily oriental, with grey leather, polished wood, hints of gold and deep red. It’s plush, and the service, as you’d expect in such a space, is that perfect balance between professional and friendly. 

GŌNG launched it’s new cocktail menu this month. Eighteen creations from head bartender Christian Maspes and his team comprise a journey through time – or Circle of Life. Each is inspired by a stage in life, a recognisable mood. or a memory. Composed into four sections, each features classic spirits and new liqueurs, specialities, vermouths, sherries and even craft beer.

The Wonder Years is innocence – think clean, fresh, light. Carefree. 

First Kiss offers flavours that spark a distinct memory or experience. 

Grown-ups – we’re a little older, wiser and perhaps a little bolder and more confident in ourselves. Confident and a little daring.

Old School Memories – treasures of the heart, think nostalgia and reminiscence.

The only problem I could see was 18 cocktails, and only 1 of me. 

Of course, one of the benefits of drinking with friends is the opportunity to sample as many drinks as possible, without either a) having a bar bill that would make your credit card quake in your wallet, or b) your balance finding itself compromised when you try to stand up from your bar stool. Both Su Lin and Denise were of the same mind and while we ordered individually, drinks were shared around the table. 

Denise’s first cocktail, was the Elixir of Success – G’Vine, Isake Classic sake, lemon juice, plum wine, oloroso sherry, violet soda. Layers of flavour from floral down to a lemon sourness. 

My first was Give Me Bubbles – Bentianna, Cocchi Amaro, Campari, coriander seeds, jenever and bubbles. Slovakian Tokay base of honey and light herbal notes with a rich mouthfeel and bitter orange base, was sparkled into being with a Perlini carbonation shaker. The addition of bubbles in a cocktail that would have been delicious still, made it something something special with that gentle fizz across the tongue.

Su Lin opted for her favourite, the Asian Explorer – Tanqueray 10 gin, mushroom infused madeira, nigori, coconut, ginseng. Recognisable oriental flavours in a drink that had me pausing with curiousity at the ingredients, but was blended beautifully. A hint of earthiness, a light savoury flavour from the ginseng, but very well balanced. 

Of course, we chatted, admired the view, and while Su Lin savoured her drink, Denise and I opted for round two. 

Denise chose Let’s Dance with Don Julio tequila, chestnut chutney, pineapple, bitters, Grand Marnier, pear. The chutney added a light acidity to this fruity number, and in the summer, this will change from chestnut to mango, to move with the seasons. 

Feeling more daring, I selected Ojiisan – Woodford Reserve bourbon, Hedonist liqueur, Pedro Ximenez, mezcal, pimento.  A revision of Blood & Sand, the name refers to a grandparent and, as you’d expect for a heavy hitter, it was smoky, herbal, layered, rich. And of course, my drink was served in a leather bootlet with a garnish of dried ginger and nori. 

Two cocktails down, and we were beginning to feel the alcohol a little bit. Before we selected another, Su Lin sensibly thought it best to indulge in some nibbles. Portland crab with mango, passion fruit and cucumber, wasabi and ginger cured salmon with yuzu cream, and the most delicious beetroot with butternut squash, honey, and pistachio. Bar snacks at a whole different level.  

Steadied, somewhat sated, as the sun began to set, we moved on to our final cocktails.

Su Lin returned to the first section of the menu with Born To Fly – Grey Goose, fig liqueur, basil, citrus, French aperitif. Light and exuberant, refreshing, cleansing, it would be the perfect start, or the perfect aperitif – awakening tastebuds.

Denise and I, however, were still in the heavier sections of the menu. Denise selected Working 9-5 –  Talisker, Cocchi Americano, Mastiha, provence bitters, umami and yuzu. Smoky, deep and one to savour – this was garnishes with beef jerky and tofu. It was recommended we sip and nibble, as the combination is very moreish – and we agreed, the umami of the jerky, matched with that of the cocktail made it a rather addictive combination.

My own, Sunshine and Flowers featured Bulleit Rye, poire, Cocchi vermouth, herbal blush, lavender. Herbal blush is a house creation, a mix of rosemary, saffron, rum and vermouth. This was perhaps the perfect way to end our time on the 52nd floor in the fading sunlight. Warming, hinting at flowers and sunshine with herbal grassy notes. 

Though this was my first visit to The Shard, I hope it won’t be my last. The view alone make the ‘London prices’ worth it, and even if it’s just for a single drink overlooking the city, I’m determined to visit again.

Oh, and did I mention they have a poolside bar?

With vast thanks to Su Lin, Denise and the team at GONG. I had a fantastic visit.

This meal and accompanying drinks were supplied for free by GONG. As ever, this doesn’t guarantee a positive review (if anything, I tend to be a harsher critic).

This was a fantastic visit, the bar is beautiful and the cocktails a step above. Next time I’m in the city, I’m definitely booking time into my day for a visit again. Even if it’s just for one.