Low slow and sticky fingered : The Pickled Ginger

Last year I went to Grillstock. It was a revelation. I learned more about barbecue – not the grilling we tend to do in the UK – than I thought possible. I met the guys behind Pro Q, who in turn had introduced me to Al, aka Dr Sweetsmoke – the man behind the revised menu at Brew Dog around the same time. Al introduced me to people like Andy Annat and Marcus Bawdon – people doing amazing things with barbecue in the UK.

He also introduced me to Reds True BBQ. Hailing from Leeds, when rumours began to circulate about them moving into the old Live Bait site, my heart started to go pitty pat. While Manchester has a few Southern American style eateries, this was going to be something special.

And I’m pleased to say it is – with three huge smokers working 24 hours a day, some of the meats smoked for 46 hours low and slow, and intending to go through around 3 tonnes of meat a week…. Let there be meat indeed.

Keeley and I, ever willing to sacrifice ourselves… Yes, ok, we were invited to go and eat and we weren’t daft enough to say no. Or vegetarian enough.

So what did we have? We kicked off with hush puppies and rib tips. The hush puppies were so perfect – not to heavy, light, crisp, creamy cornmeal, and the best chile con queso I’ve had in a very long time. Since I last visited the USA in fact. The rib tips were soft and juicy, others chewier and crisp, delicious pork with a rich sticky barbecue sauce that ingrains itself into your fingers. The way it should.

But this was just the taster. I then headed in for something more hearty (!) with the combo baby backs and bbq chicken. Chicken cooked so low and slow it’s tender and creamy with a joyous smoke flavour, resting beneath a pile of glazed baby backs. And then two ‘humble’ sides, onion rings that looked like bangles, in a crisp batter and then the grits. The first time I had grits I was in California and I was in my teens. I’d met Mickey and Minnie and shaken hands with Pluto. Memories filled my head as creamy corn decorated with paprika filled my mouth.

Keeley had opted for the Texas beef brisket and pulled pork combo with a ‘divine’ side, the mac ‘n’ cheese. The beef was tender, smoky and full of that deep, dry umami flavour that’s key, whilst the pork was soft and juicy served with pickles, slaw and a little pot of apple sauce. I suspect Keeley was relieved my attention was distracted by the grits, as the mac ‘n’ cheese had her reaching for the fork again and again, even after we’d both been defeated.

And yet, there was more. We had to try dessert – in your interests of course – and were then persuaded to two by our waitress. She recommended the brownie, which was lovely, chocolatey, crisp, perhaps not as squidgy as I’m used to. But then she recommended the peanut butter cheesecake.

I have manners. Some would even say class. I do not lick a plate clean in public.

Normally.

But what, I hear you cry, of the drinks?

With smoke being a theme, I had to try the Bourbon Cask Smoked Manhattan. Arriving in a carafe, I waited as long as I dared – til dessert – to pour. And it was perfectly timed. Alongside that cheesecake, it’s no wonder I licked the plate.

The Georgia Hobo Juice is also a thing to behold, arriving in a paper bag wrapped jar, it’s sweet and sour at the same time, ideal to cut through some of the fattier offerings.

The Banana Colada is a dessert in a glass, sweet, thick delicious, that you cannot taste any alcohol means it’s more than a little dangerous.

And the Honey Berry Smash – fruity, sweet, minty, it’s no wonder this is a big seller.

These alongside craft beers, shakes, softs and shots, you’re sure to find something you like.

If you don’t like music great enough to make you want to dance on tables, food enough that you swear you can still taste it on your fingertips hours later, and a late licence that means I suspect it’s going to be where are the barstaff go after work, then this isn’t for you.

But I know what you’re like, so I’ll see you there then?