Red Willow Brewery: Kitchen Takeover with Ernst Van Zyl

I first met Ernst, 2 years ago, when my birthday loomed and I hadn’t a clue what to do for it. In an incredible offer of generosity, he offered to create a bespoke tasting menu at his old stomping ground, the Etrop Grange.

Since then, much has changed. We’re all a little older, the Etrop Grange has changed hands and Ernst has set up his own restaurant, The Lord Clyde with partner Sarah.

And we’ve both met and become involved with Toby MacKenzie and Red Willow Bar. I should have been unsurprised that these two inventive gents should come together (given their venues’ close proximity to each other) in one event at the Red Willow Bar in Macclesfield and create something very special.

A five course tasting menu, in Ernst’s own inimitable style, and Toby’s discerning beer palate. Is it any wonder I got a little excited?  This really was going to be something special.

We were greeted on arrival with a cocktail – a Cider Sour. Good, sharp, green apple flavours, perfect to get the tastebuds going and with the scents gently emanating from the kitchen, we needed no encouragement to take our seats.

As we took our seats, and sipped our cocktails, out came one of Ernst’s signatures – smoked butter and fresh, warm bread. Lifting the lid from this tiny terracotta pot is a joy. Smoke emanates from the pot, having flavoured and scented the creamy salty butter. Spreading this on a rich nutty slice from the loaf immediately pleases all the senses.

Our first course involved a nemesis of mine, tomato. We don’t get on very well – I’ve learned to tolerate it more in recent years, but still, the dish was made up of salmon, heirloom tomatoes, grapefruit and jack by the hedge.

Of course, as both Mr GFB and I have learned in the past, Ernst has a way with food (any person who can get Mr GFB to actually enjoy eating sprouts is a genius in my eyes) and this dish was just delicious. Yes, even the tomato. The salmon had been poached gently in a liquor that included hops and done, given the texture and tenderness, at a very low temperature (sous vide I suspect and no doubt Ernie will correct me if I’m wrong). The accompaniments were fresh, the grapefruit delicately bitter in a similar manner to the hops.

We had two beers with this first course, First Chop’s HOP English pale ale, and Brasserie de Cazeau Saison. Whilst both offered something, it was the Saison’s ability to both enhance the flavours from the tomato and make the creaminess of the salmon linger in the mouth that pleased the majority of the table. There was something about the acidity of the beer that just worked exceptionally well.

Our second course was the cause of much consternation at the table – in a good way. Beetroot and goats cheese are natural companions, even the grapes are a relatively obvious pairing. What had everyone talking was the Marmite meringues.

They were, delicious. The combination of sweet and savoury, sugar and umami was perfect and played with the earthiness of the beetroot and the acidity of the goats cheese.

Paired with this course, again, were two beers. Red Willow’s own Wreckless and Beavertown’s Black Betty. This was a much closer pairing on both cases and hard to pick a preference. Black Betty probably just nudged it for me, simply as a fan of earthy flavours, this played with them and intensified them.

By now, I was feeling a teeny bit lightheaded and rather glad that the next few courses involved a single beer pairing.

This was probably my favourite course of the evening – if I close my eyes I can still taste it. Jacobs ladder, tarragon, shallot and egg, paired with Red Willow’s Smokeless.

Interestingly, I hate tarragon. I find it harsh, unpleasant and usually avoid it at all costs. This dish was heavenly. Smokeless brought out something special from the jacobs ladder, the creaminess of the egg, creating a rich texture in the mouth. It was a dish I could eat over and over and over again.

The last of our meat courses was lamb with heritage carrot, broad beans and curry, paired with Sleepless, again from Red Willow. Sleepless picked up on the earthy flavours and the sweetness of the carrot balanced it beautifully. I loved the texture of the spelt in my mouth, alongside the tender lamb, rich curry gravy and light vegetable flavours and looking at the cleared plates on the table, I wasn’t alone.

Four courses in and a rest was declared – for our tummies and our palates. Out came a stunning beer from Burning Sky, their Saison a la Provision.  This is probably one of the most refreshing beers I’ve come across. A little tart, a little sour, it’s as close to a wine as a beer can get and was ideal to give our mouths a rest and prepare us for dessert.

Dessert was always going to be something exceptional, but it was actually the pairing that took it to a whole new level. Strawberry and tonka bean, hazelnut and nasturtium were brought together in a delicious partnership with Kernel Export Stout. The stout enhanced the hazelnuts to a degree that the flavour balance of the dish changed from light and fruity with a hint of crispness, into something nutty and rich, balanced by the light acidity of the strawberries. The dry nuttiness lingered, making it a perfect finish to the evening.

Toby, Ernst, teams on both sides, you worked your magic in a way that puzzled, challenged and ultimately delighted everyone who dined.

Now Ernie, I’m looking forward to the 5 course gin pairing dinner that you and I have planned for 16 July…..

I suspect I’ll have my work cut out for me…

This meal was paid for by myself and Mr GFB.