Restaurant Opening: Grafene : The Pickled Ginger

Ah Grafene.

When I first heard about you opening, I must admit, my hackles rose. For those of you who don’t know what my day job is, I’m an Executive Assistant working for the National Graphene Institute. Yes, I look after those professors and, given that my job is acting as facilitator, gate keeper, and , sometimes, autographed photo dispenser, it’s not really that surprising. I’m there to make sure their research happens, their team is looked after, their life runs smoothly and that to an extent, those who want to take advantage of a Nobel Prize winner can… Well, they can’t.

So the use of the name made my eyebrows rise. After all, if you’re going to play on the name of something potentially so revolutionary (just ask me in person, or read my words here, I’m not writing it down on here, and yes, I do get asked all the time, it’s fine), you’ve got to have the food to back it up. And just that is probably going to make me a harsher critic than of another venue.

However. The restaurant has only just opened, so despite two visits so far, I’m not going to form a firm verdict until I visit again in a few months, it’s simply not fair. There are always going to be niggles, things not quite right in these early days. However, I’ve been asked for an initial verdict, and so in we go.

My first visit was during the soft launch. And it was early doors. The smell of paint was still in the air, there were elements missing still and some of the staff were still very new. Lovely, but still very new. First impressions – it’s very grey. A good match for my hair, and yes, graphene is a little grey (it’s only gently opaque, around 20% opacity, so it’s more see through than coloured) and in the venue it’s relieved in parts by a green/cold plush on the chairs, and a partially wooden floor, with lots of texture and patterns to break up the grey.

After a couple of cocktails at the bar, we were shown to one of the central banquettes, with a little kitchen to the back, at this point occupied by the dessert chef, skilfully working on pastry for apple tarts.

My starter was a delightfully light pea mousse, accented by curd cheese, pea shoots and edible flowers. Light, barely there in texture, but sweet, and clean in flavour.

My date had opted for the scallops, with crisp pancetta, black pudding bon bon and chorizo puree with ribbons of courgette. The only grumble on this plate of delciousness was that the scallops had been taken a little too far. A shame, but then again, even chefs have to break in a new kitchen.

My date’s main was far more successful – sea trout (perfectly done), quinoa, broccoli puree and a squid ink sauce. Getting her to pause for a moment while I took a snap was a challenge, but nonetheless, she was a happy diner.

My own rib eye with ox cheek and potato terrine, smoked Wensleydale custard and onion puree was a delight. I know that some will eye the pink of that meat in horror, but it was deliciously tender. And I’ve never been afraid of a little pink.

Our wine, however was a little late and, despite asking almost at the same time as ordering our mains, it arrived after we had both finished. So we allowed it to influence dessert instead.

My date’s dessert too was declared fabulous and her plate cleaned of the rich chocolate delice malt barley ice cream, malt meringue and blueberries, whereas I had opted for a cheese plate, with home made biscuits, melty cheese (I love a venue that serves it properly at room temperature) and a generous helping of celery, chutney, and chilled crisp grapes.

Service wise, this was a little hit and miss. Our server was lovely, but nervous and we did have to suggest he write things down a couple of times. We heard the chef call service more than once, whilst a host of staff were hovering at the bar. So niggles abounded. I held on for my second visit.

Fast forward a week and I was back. This time with work and again a little early. So I settled down again for cocktails. Everything seemed much more comfortable and less nervous, so we indulged in a little cocktail theatre. After all, everyone loves a colour changing cocktail. Especially when it contains gin.

The bar staff seemed much more relaxed, more comfortable with the menu and with serving. Just a week can make all the difference. Time for the food.

For my starter, I went for a complete change – the pickled mackerel in sorrel broth with slivers of crisp green apple. Light chilled broth with a fresh herbal flavour and the sour hint to the fish was lovely the sweet/sharp hit of the apple also cutting through the oily nature of the fish.

I also queried my colleagues concerning the scallops – perfectly done. A week in hospitality can be a long time.

I’d gone for fish with my main too – brill fillet, cauliflower risotto, grapes, apple, samphire and crab bisque. The fish was done perfectly again, the grapes warm with sweet acidity, the bisque rich, the risotto tender.

However, it seemed for my colleagues that the rib eye that I had so enjoyed the week before wasn’t as good as even mine had looked. A little disappointing given my own support for it as a main option.

Onto dessert and I gave into pastry. Apple tart topped with ice cream and caramel sauce. And almost immediately wished I’d gone for cheese again. The pastry was crisp and rich, but the apples lacked a little something, I still now can’t put my finger on. Whereas the cheese again looked generous and rich.

My colleagues also shared a little consternation – chocolate creme brulee was more of a brulee topped cheesecake and the blood orange ice added little to the flavour. Though that didn’t stop them clearing their plates!

Overall. OK Grafene I really want to like you. I want you to succeed – not just because of the association, but because you’ve got the makings of a great restaurant.

You’ve got niggles. And I didn’t even go into the placings of the sanitary bins being useless (a chap definitely designed those loos). But they’re not insurmountable at all.

So I’ll see you in a couple of months.