Restaurant Review: Hispi, Manchester

Sometimes it’s about cheap and cheerful.

Sometimes it’s about piled high and calorific.

Sometimes it’s about the extravagant and the elaborate.

And sometimes it’s good food, cooked simply, that tastes delicious. 

It’s what Mr GFB and I have always respected about Gary and the team behind Sticky Walnut and Burnt Truffle. So much so that when they were looking to crowdfund for their Manchester site, Hispi, we were both on it like a car bonnet. We did it separately, and then confessed to each other with slightly sheepish grins on our faces. 

And it’s also why, despite having a voucher for lunch and a voucher for dinner (for those asking, I was the cheapskate who only has the lunch voucher), we still paid for this visit as it was part of their somewhat bonkers early evening diner offer. 3 courses and a glass of wine for £19, we didn’t bother. At that price, take my money already.

 

 

It was a cold grey day, and we headed over almost straight from work (with a small detour to the now closed Wetherspoons for a quick gin, because you know, post work alcohol). Our greeting was warm, and we perched at a small table near the kitchen – perfect vantage point for me, as people watch and I could see everything that was going on. I’m nosey like that. 

 

 

Cocktails in hand we eyed the menu. As an early doors menu, it’s small but well formed, with three courses to choose from, plus extra nibbles and sides if you’re feeling suitably peckish. We did just that and opted for the beer battered salt pickles to accompany a cocktail each. Fizz for Mr GFB, a Negroni for me. 

 

 

In truth, the pickles were probably the weakest dish in our selection. Perhaps it’s because I’m a pickle fiend (seriously I think I have a pickle problem, we went through jar after jar over Christmas). It’s not that they weren’t good, they just weren’t amazing – and maybe that’s because we’ve have some that have knocked it out of the park.

 

 

Thankfully the soup and pate were on form to make everything better. Any excuse for a good bit of sourdough (don’t tell my PT please). And you know a soup is good when you’re sharing starters, and arguing over the last mouthful.

At least the chicken liver pate is easier to divvy up. Cut it down the middle. And then argue who has the bigger piece. 

 

 

When it comes to the mains, the featherblade is king. The beef is braised for up to eight hours in chicken stock, red wine, herbs and vegetables. The contents of the pan (aside from the beef) is then cooked down with more bones overnight, before it’s strained, and reduced – with more wine – to create a rich, luxurious sauce that sticks to your lips and coats your insides in warm, rich, viscous flavours.

 

 

Served with crisp, sweet chips, it’s a thing of beauty. 

But don’t think vegetable dishes are poor because of the time spent on the meat. 

 

 

There are few people who can entice Mr GFB to entertain cauliflower. Even fewer who can cause him to entertain the concept of sprouts. And whilst he’d take that featherblade above both (I think he’d possibly consider putting the featherblade above me, but would never admit to it), he both entertained and enjoyed both.

Desserts too offer a trio of options. Personally, whilst the beignets are nice, the Eccles cake and the Parkin are always going to draw me in – especially in colder months.

 

 

As a child, an Eccles cake would see me pull a face (not particularly unlike Mr GFB’s when I mention cauliflower), but as a grown-up, and as a dense buttery warm pastry, rather than a greasy, dry, packeted thing, they are one of my favourite things. 

 

And Parkin – which as a child simply wasn’t sweet or sugary enough – is now something to be enjoyed for just that, it’s nutty, round flavour. 

I admit it, I love Hispi. I know those who have grumbled about the portion size, and those who haven’t enjoyed the cocktails. For my money, I don’t go to Hispi for the cocktails. They’re a nice addition, but you’re not going to get a bartender flaring at the bar, that’s not what it’s about. And portion size wise – well just order more sides. Or you know, take the early evening menu and order everything – three sets of food between two – you’re going to pay £30 each, and get a glass of wine each, and fight over the third. It’s still a bargain.

In the meantime, Mr GFB and I really must book in to enjoy our vouchers on another date night, before we look at investing in their next project in Liverpool.