Manchester seems to have a bit of a thing for Italian restaurants. As I write this, I’m told there’s another one setting up shop on Moseley Street. I’ve not counted, but we do have a lot of them. From the fast convenience of Vapiano, to the small but perfectly formed Sugo in Altrincham. We’re not short of spots to get our pasta fix.
But probably one of the most authentic has to be Salvi’s. It’s the one where there’s a family connection – mum still comes in to check on the kitchen, and her recipes, and it’s probably the place where I’ve experienced the pasta closest to ‘al dente’ as the English palate allows. In Italy the pasta and risotto is much firmer than we’re used to.
My latest visit to the Cucina on John Dalton Street, as usual, post gym visit, and so I had worked up a definite appetite. Luckily my training regime calls for carbs in the evening, and so whilst my date and I sipped on a big fat glass of red wine each, we dove head first into the menu.
Salvi’s source the majority of their ingredients direct from Italy. It’s the reason their smoked mozzarella is downright infamous. The quality is there. From the rich flavour of the Parma ham, to the softness of the Mortadella. Which was why the Tagliere to share was where we went first. A selection of three hams, 3 cheeses, olives, mixed vegetables, served with olive oil drizzled bread.
And yes, we cleared every mouthful. From soft courgette to the roasted peppers, to the creamy oozing burrata. But I had also spotted something else on the menu that called for my attention. Arancini.
I haven’t figured out why they are such a draw for me, but there is something utterly satisfying about these deep fried risotto balls. Maybe it’s the carbs on carbs element. Maybe it’s that they are deeply savoury. Or maybe it’s because they’re usually filled with meat or cheese, like this big beauty. The arancini di riso con ragu de carne was filled with ragu and mozarella. A little surprise as you sliced it open. (Also the Italian description is so much prettier than ‘deep fried rice ball filled with meat sauce and cheese).
You’d think after this big platter and egg shaped ball of carbs we’d be done.
But no. Though we knew a main and a dessert was far from a possibility. Sharing a main wasn’t. And we knew what we fancied.
Carbonara. Salvi’s uses guanciale – which thanks to a friend of mine I shall forever know as ‘face bacon’, as it’s made from the cheek of the pig. It’s a fattier piece of meat, and tends to be softer and more tender – it’s fattiness gives more flavour to the dish (remember, fat is flavour). I rather like it because it’s pronounce ‘gwan charlie’. Yeah, I know, I’m vain. But it’s bacon with my name in it.
Salvi’s was damn near perfect. I’m salivating thinking about it – the spaghetti was as al dente as I’ve had it in Manchester, the flavour was all there, and the sauce just coated the pasta, rather than it swimming in liquid.
Salvi’s is a bloody good Italian restaurant – which shouldn’t be lost in a sea of pasta options. Authentic food, lovely service, and very good wine.
See you next time.
All food and drink in this post was paid for by ourselves.