I try very hard not to write about date nights with Mr GFB.
And Mr GFB and I don’t really do Valentine’s day. We’re old marrieds. But sometimes there’s an exception to be made.
Mary Ellen MacTeague at the Cellar Key for Valentine’s day? That’s not an every day occurrence. And given that Mr GFB and I hadn’t got around to visiting Aumbry before the news of its closure, well two (three?) birds and one stone sprang to mind.
Romance was definitely in the air. Andy and his team had kept things simple, but classy with a single red rose on each table, and the menu traditionally, still only hinted at the courses.
The rooms soon filled with likeminded couples, old and young, and the team wandered around with rose petal scented bottles of water and our first wine – Cavit Lunetta Prosecco – light, peachy with little hints of apple, this was ideal to get our taste buds awake and paying attention.
Bread arrived to help our tastebuds along a little further, with rich, churned butter and beef dripping. I know I’ve had to stop eating bread, but I damn near drank that beef dripping.
OK, I did. I don’t think anyone saw me though. Right?
I know, like I say, I’m classy.
Tastebuds engaged, romantic music and the matched wine and our first course started to make its way out. Roasted beetroot, crisp and earthy lay beneath soft homemade curds, topped with hay ash and fresh sheep sorrel. This was a delight, the acidity and creaminess of the curds went with the earthy yet sweet beetroot, the fresh herbal notes from the sorrel and the light bitterness from the ash.
Matched with a glass of Joseph Cattin Riesling Grand Cru – soft citrus and an almost flinty mineral tone that worked especially well with the cheese.
Our second course brought us a teacup laden with strips of venison, and dainty cubes of turnip, onto which was poured a deep rich consomme, laden with flavours of hare and goose. Aside this was a slice of toasted malt loaf, smeared with truffle butter.
The venison was tender, the broth heavy in flavour, but light in texture and the turnip almost crisp and sweet. I nibbled a little of the crisp gently sweet malt loaf, but Mr GFB was swift to remind me of my current bread issues and generously offer to assist with finishing it for me.
Alongside this we drank Domaine de Berthelemot ‘Noizons’ 2010 Pommard, from Cote de Beaune The nicely light tannins and hints of ripe red fruit balanced the heavier flavours of the food.
Onto our fish course – probably my favourite of the night. Poached Scottish langoustine, with fresh green kale, a rich creamy bisque foam and a piece of perfectly cooked monkfish encased in rice and squid ink.
The bisque had me wanting to lick the plate, but given I’d already drunk the dripping, I thought it a step too far. I loved the soft pink langoustine with it’s creamy, sweet, flavour, the bitter green kale and the monkfish was meaty, and soft within its crunchy rice panko coating.
The wine, Tenuta Rapitala Chardonnay Grand Cru 2013, was delicious – quite a good heavy Chardonnay with butter, vanilla and a hint of smoke about it (and with a gorgeous bottle) but it didn’t pair as well as the others for me – though it’s definitely one I want to revisit.
Our penultimate dish was roast partridge with celeriac, shredded cabbage and liver parfait. Soft creamy celeriac puree, lightly bitter sauteed cabbage, and the liver, rich creamy, a hint of sweetness. And then the roast patridge, lightly pink, tender and delicious.
My favourite wine of the evening was served alongside this. Paul Jaboulet Syrah, Crozen Hermitage 2011. Spicy, a hint of violet, and berries.
Dessert was an Aumbry classic.
Sherbet atop the teaspoon, the cup held celery granita and grapefruit posset. The sharp sherbet, gentle herbal flavours of the granita and the bitter citrus and creamy posset were gorgeous. I’m a long term supporter of celery, it’s underrated in so many ways and it’s fantastic to see it used in a different way.
And paired with this, was a long favoured beer of mine and one I served at IMBC – Wild Swan by Thornbridge – a light ale at 3.5%, it’s herbal and softly bitter lemon citrus. A great pairing to finish the evening.
Huge thanks to Andy, Mary Ellen and the teams who put together such a fabulous night.
Fantastic food, fantastic wine and beer and of course, fantastic company. Probably our best Valentine’s yet.
This evening was paid for by myself and Mr GFB.